Interior Paint
Latex
Advantages: Usually cheaper, Fade Resistant,
easier clean up environmentally friendlier, faster drying, requires no
special thinners or solvents, requires stirring less often. Less dust
pick-up. Preferred for walls, ceilings and primed woodwork.
Oil
/Alkyd
Advantages: Better flow properties, allowing
for a smoother finish. Harder more scrub able, stronger bond to many
surfaces, slower set up time allowing more time to work a particular area.
Preferred for Wood trim, cabinets,
metal surfaces (heat registers, metal doors ect.)
New Work
New
Wood
Primer:
new woodwork should first be primed with a suitable primer. Generally an oil\alkyd
interior primer is preferred for several reasons. 1 it does NOT raise the grain of the wood in the same manner that latex would. 2
better results sanding for a good prep job. 3 it can easily be
painted with oil or latex. 4 Some of the resinous vehicle can penetrate into
some wood surfaces for a very strong bond.
Today
however there are more latex or water born products available to be used
as an interior wood primer, weather or not you can get as good results
with these for woodwork is still debatable. Knots will have to be primed
with
pigmented shellac to prevent bleeding.
Finish paint
The latex & water born paints are becoming more popular for woodwork as
new products become available. Many still prefer the flowed out surface &
harder finish of the oil-based .If a high gloss is desired you will
generally get better results with an oil paint, but most people agree that
the advantages of latex make for an over all easier job.
New Sheetrock
, New Plaster
Latex
is the most popular choice for sheetrock and plastered surfaces today.
Primer Latex finish paint can
often be used as its own primer however; it is recommended that you use a
quality latex drywall primer or primer-sealer for best results.
This primer will penetrate somewhat into the surface for a good bond and
creates a barrier for the finish coat to bond to for a more uniform
appearance. It is probably best to stay away from the cheaper wallboard
primers, as they have no surface properties and would not leave a suitable
base for some finishes. There are oil-based primers that may be used for this
purpose, but for the most part stick with the latex. New Plaster usually
requires a cure time prior to painting check with the plaster manufacturers
specifications.
Finish Paint: Latex
Paint will bond to latex or oil primer. Oil finish paint will bond to the
latex or oil primer, but may not always work out so well over the latex
due to the higher flexibility of the latex.
New
Hardboard Primer
:Unprimed
hardboard may produce some bleed through with latex primer, its usually recommended
to use an oil base /alkyd primer for these products. However with the wide
array of materials available ,it it wise to check with the manufacturer as
with some of the newer cement composition siding products it is recommended
to primed with latex
Finish Paint :Latex
Paint will bond to latex or oil primer. Oil finish paint will bond to the
latex or oil primer, but may not always work out so well over the latex
due to the higher flexibility of the latex
Previously
Painted Surface
It’s
not usually necessary to prime previously painted surfaces. Any bare wood
or patched areas should be spot primed with appropriate primer as described
a new surface .
Stains,
knots and graffiti need to be sealed see section
below.
Ceilings
:Applying a quality latex primer sealer to ceilings prior to paining
with the finish will often give better results , it eliminates the
splotchy look. Some of these latex sealers dry glossy, but the flat will
be easier to paint over with the ceiling paint.
Painting
over flat latex finish paint with a glossier finish paint will probably
leave splotchy results. To prevent this first apply a quality wallboard
primer or latex primer sealer .However it will often work ok just to use
two coats of the finish paint as the first coat acts as the sealer.
Finish
:You should always consider the
type of paint presently on the surfaces. If the surface has been painted
with latex last time, then it may be best to stick with latex for the
work. This is because the latex will expand and contract farther than the
oil-based, in time oil over latex could lead to problems. If a surface has
been previously painted with oil, latex may
not bond to
that surface as well as oil-based paint, especially if the surface is
glossy .The gloss would at least have to be dulled down prior to painting (see
Dulling). Dulling
Stains Knots Graffiti
Discolored Ceilings
There are latex ,alkyd and alcohol based primer sealers.
Water stains on ceilings and walls, ink, crayon, and knots will need to be
sealed prior to painting. Generally you only need to spot prime these
areas.
The alcohol based is usually most effective. The
alkyd next and latex the least effective. However they are easiest to use
in the reveres order .
Knots will need the alcohol based sealer.
Water stains will usually cover with the
alkyd or alcohol sealer
A discolored ceiling may not paint well
with even two or more coats of ceiling paint. Using a good quality latex
primer sealer prior to the finish ceiling paint give the best results.
Smoked up areas usually fair better using the oil
or alcohol primer sealer
Possible
situation: Prior to the 1950s some ceilings were painted with a
white wash like product called calcimine. Using latex paint on a
ceiling that has been painted with calcimine may cause blistering. This is
not very common in most areas now, but painters still run into this
occasionally. Sometimes the calcimine can be washed off, but it is
otherwise necessary to use an oil/alkyd base ceiling paint to prevent the
blistering.
Wallpaper
Vinyl and older type non-vinyl wallpaper can be painted,
often without a primer. However in many cases using the appropriate can
reduce the chances of problems. A quality primer sealer is a good choice
to insure a good bond to vinyl wallpaper and seal any color from bleeding. It is
possible that the non-vinyl wallpapers can lift when painted with a latex
paint or a latex primer sealer, therefore an oil based primer sealer would
be recommended on older type wallpapers. Once the paper is primed it can
be painted with oil or latex finish paint
Metal
Most new metal installations come pre-finished, or primed. Any bare
un-oxidized ferrous metals should be primed with the proper type metal primer. Ferrous
metals (steel, iron) can usually be primed with a standard gray or white
metal primer. Oil Based
Galvanized metal should be primed with a product designed for that
purpose. Galvanized Metal Primer. Usually White.
Aluminum can be primed with the galvanized metal primer, or
the standard gray primer. Latex also bonds to aluminum
and can be used for a primer under latex finish paint.
On slightly rusted surfaces use gray metal primer. Heavily rusted
surfaces use a red (Iron Oxide) metal primer.
In general; (but not a rule of thumb) the more rusted the surface, the
darker the metal primer used should be. Other commercial grade primers are also
available for certain exterior use.
Finish paint : Once properly primed, most metal interior metal
surfaces can be painted with almost any quality paint. However metal door
and heat registers usually fair better with an oil base/alkyd. Gloss Metal
Enamels provide the most durability, but can sometimes be more difficult
to work with, and the high gloss may be over bearing. Semi gloss or
eggshell gloss trim paint is a good choice for steel doors.
Also See What's in A
Can Of Paint
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